Short rows for every occasion

If you're not essentially tubular, you might appreciate having your sweaters fit better. Sure, there's all of that increase/decrease stuff, but that's only one dimension of your knitting. The other one is length, and it's almost never considered in printed patterns. (Some White Lies Designs patterns, such as the Shapely Tank are welcome exceptions, even if I don't want a tank top made of cotton that thick.)

First we'll consider the case for which most patterns are written: tubluar person. (Tubular person is facing to the right, so that you can appreciate her/his tubularosity.)

Note that if the front and the back of tubular person's sweaters are the same length, they come to the same point on her/his body. Right now we're going to consider this the goal, though you can use these same techniques to make the sweater whatever shape you want.

Now we'll consider pointy person.

Pointy person's sweaters don't fit so well if the front and back are the same length. (See left figure.) In fact, pointy person is liable to end up with weird bunching and an unintended crop-top effect in the front of her/his sweaters. If this isn't the effect that pointy person prefers, then pointy person might be better served with a sweater where the front of the sweater is the length of the arrow on the right. (This arrow suggests a relatively clingy sweater.)

The situation is, naturally, a little more complex than this. When we're consdering bust darts, we really only want to increase the length of part of the front of the sweater by that much. Thus, for situations like these (which are pretty much all of 'em), one needs two measurements to add short-row shaping:

• How wide? Measure the width of whatever body part you'd like to cover at the most prominent part. For bust darts, this doesn't mean to measure the width of your breasts. This means to measure the distance between your nipples (assuming that they're the part of your breasts that sticks out the farthest. If you're actually making bust darts, you may not want the bust dart to become an arrow pointing right at your nipples, so add "a little" length to this. (I just use a measuring tape and start moving out until it doesn't look like I'm grabbing myself.)
  
• How long? As in the diagram of pointy person, measure length down to some point over the most prominent part of whatever body part you're trying to cover along the path you expect the sweater to take. Then measure length on the other side down to the same point. For bust darts, that means measuring over the fullest part of the breast down to something like the end of your ribs and then down over your back to the same height in back. If your sweater is going to be really clingy, hold the measuring tape close to you and right up under your breasts. If your sweater is going to be less clingy, drape the measuring tape the way you expect the sweater to fall (which is probably not right up underneath the breasts).
  

Now, for the math. This is really simple: knit a piece of fabric the shape of the red quadrilateral in the diagram below, then keep knitting your garment over all the stiches. It'll act like there's a triangle of fabric missing, just like if you made a dart in a sewn garment, and you'll get a graceful addition of length to cover your body.

More specifically, you can tell how many short rows you need by multiplying the length by your row gauge. Call this x Then the difference between the original width and the desired short-row width, times your stitch gauge gives you the number of stitches that you don't need to knit by the time you get to the top. Call this n. Since there are two sides, that's n/2 stiches per side. Because you only hit each side once every two rows, you knit n/2 divided by x/2 fewer stitches each time you turn. That's n/x stitches fewer each time. If it's not quite even, fudge mercilessly.

You can spread out these short rows in two different ways: separate them in chunks or spread them out diffusely. Separating the short rows into two chunks is especially useful if you have a very long length and/or a very short width. The math for this shaping is just like the math for a single set of short rows, just repeated upside down. :)

If this diagram looks a bit familiar, that's because it's exactly how short-row sock heels are constructed. You can also calculate the short rows you'll need and spread them out over a larger area to make them less obvious. Just keep in mind that if they get too far from the area that requires them, it can cause odd stretching in the knitted fabric.

Don't forget: this technique isn't just for bust darts! This is how you can cover more complex shapes (such as the following)

knit short-row heels for socks, or make the shoulders of your sweaters (especially raglans) fit better!

More Mermaid

Good luck to everyone else who's working on a Mermaid! I wore mine to work today and was stopped in the hall by someone who complimented it. (This takes a fair bit of doing in an organization of engineers, computer scientists, mathematicians, and other assorted geeks.) He was extremely surprised that I made it myself. The upshot is that this takes a long time to knit, but it isn't hard and the payoff is good.

I looked at the other Hanne Falenberg sweaters, but I'm just not tempted by anything but Ballerina. I think I might be able to better satisfy that urge by knitting a nice tweedy capelet, even though we've passed capelet-appropriate weather here in Boston with today's "snow". Who knew that slush could fall from the sky?

From Ava:
Gee, I have to finish my Mermaid now. Yours looks great! I appreciate the photos and the tips. I have one question? what is the armscye? How could it be cut deeper? Do you think the droopy shoulders could be remedied by shoulder pads?

Thanks, Ava. :) The armscye is the hole for your arm. There are essentially two dimensions to a set-in armscyes, which I'll call length and depth. (That diagram is supposed to be a sweater; the red is the armscyes, which is where you didn't knit so that there would be a place to sew in a sleeve.)

If the length is too short, your sleeve will rub your armpit raw. If its too long, it can literally pin your arm to your side. (See my first attempt at a sweater, for which I did not write the pattern, thank you very much. If anyone wants a laugh, I'll dig this out and take a picture wearing it, now that I have help in the house. The degree of pinning was so extreme that I couldn't take my own picture in the mirror.) A deeper armscye will pull the sleeve a little farther up on your shoulder. As someone with excessive curves and small shoulders, Mermaid would have fit me slightly better if it had slightly more depth to the armscyes. Shoulder pads might well fix this, but I don't usually wear them. To be clear, this is a minor quibble; I'm very attuned to perfect tailoring, even if I don't manage to dress as well as that would imply.

From Jasmine:
hmm, now I am worried about knitting this -- I was going to make the large size and shorten it to the medium length as to accomodate some curves but it sounds like you think darts might be the way to go -- I'd hate to knit this up and have it not fit well.

It depends on where your curves are. Even with all the hip I have, Mermaid is more than roomy in the hips. I just find that it isn't nipped enough in the waist for my figure, and that it could use some bust darts (like every other sweater design ever made). I'll write up something on short-row shaping tomorrow to give guidelines on tweaking the math. If you're feeling desperate, I can often be bribed into math. :)

I've worked out the math for my next design and started it off. A few inches of knitted coned yarn scrunched up on circular needles isn't very exciting, though, so I'm going to save the progress pix until after the short-row shaping post. Short-row shaping saves my butt every time I knit, now that I've figured out the simple math to follow.

Mermaid question

As I can't email anonymous directly (and because I love the parts of blogs where people talk about what's good/bad about a pattern or yarn), I'll answer this question from Anonymous about my last post:
I looked. I was looking for comments about Hanne Falkenberg patterns and kits. I like how they look on her website but wasn't sure how they look on real people - many are shown on mannequins. It sounded like you had some mixed feelings. Were the instructions clear? What is knit from the bottom up or side to side - looking at the stripes, is sort of looked like it might be side to side.

I have a lot of trouble fitting pre-made clothing and patterns because I'm quite curvy (true hourglass figure) but still pretty small (size 6-ish) and tall (5'9"). That this pattern wasn't curvy enough for me isn't saying much, and I can't predict how it will look on you without some measurements. :) If any specific pictures would help you, please let me know and I'll post them. I also have some ideas about how to tweak the pattern to add bust darts and reduce the waist, if anyone wants them. (I can go through the general math for adding bust darts, if anyone needs that, too.)

The instructions are terribly written for a kit of that price. I had no trouble following them after a bit of puzzlement at the beginning, but they are certainly terse. You'll find things like a long stretch of changing short-row shaping and increases with no explicit row count, followed by an instruction to reverse the shaping. It's annoying but not a show-stopper. I actually do that anyway on patterns, just to make sure everything matches correctly. I am a math geek. One knitter on the Hanne-along made a spreadsheet version of the directions that other people seem to have found helpful (she'll only give it to you if you already have the directions, btw). Personally, I found the directions sufficient, if terse for someone who's knit as little as I have.

Mermaid is knit from side to side. First, the directions specify that you knit a really freaking long icord and pick up stitches from it. I would strongly recommend that you use a provisional cast-on instead. Garter stitch tends to expand width-wise (length-wise on this sweater), which means that your icord might well be too tight, and you wouldn't find out until later when you block the sweater. The pain involved in picking out the icord and redoing it is just too much to contemplate. Anyway, provisionally cast on a bunch of stitches, then knit lengthwise the collar/lapels/front edges of the sweater. You can see a picture of this stage here: the ivory bit sticks up on top because that will be stitched together with a matching piece on the other side to create the collar later. Then one continues to knit the body (the top of this section will be seamed together to make the shoulders) to the armscye. At that point you cast off a bunch of stitches, make the underarm shaping, and cast em back on again. You can see a picture of this here. Then you do the entire thing in reverse to create the other side of the sweater; all the fancy gussets are just some short rows, and I didn't think they were hard. Seaming is a snap, so don't worry about that part. There's a good bit of icord to apply, but it didn't take me too long. All the little details about this sweater are nicely designed, but not fully explained. Luckily, there are a bunch of people out there who have figured these little details out already.

As for the sleeves, they're also knit lengthwise. Short rows and increases/decreases create shaping at the sides of the caps, but the middle is straight knitting and increases/decreases to make the top of the cap. The blue stripe down the middle is just two ridges of garter stitch. Once each sleeve is done, it's "seamed" using a three-needle bind-off with the cast on stitches. If you wanted, you could do a nicer seam or a provisional cast on, but I haven't found the seam to be bulky because the yarn is so fine.

Because this is a rather complex sweater/jacket that's knit on 3mm (I used 2.75mm) needles, you are making a significant time investment in this, in addition to the cost of the kit. Right now I'm pretty down on myself, because this isn't as perfect as I wanted, but it is lovely and I'm going to road-test it tomorrow. For me, I think it was worth it, especially as it introduced me to a lot of new techniques and ways of thinking about fabric and shaping. I also have a newfound affection for shetland yarn, which I never would have considered before. I'm going to use my Mermaid leftovers (and I have a lot, since I knit the smallest size) towards a patterned-yoke shetland sweater a la Elizabeth Zimmerman. Shetland is a little scratchier than, say, merino, but it makes up for it by being incredibly light and fluffy and warm. Even a light knitted fabric has structure, even while it preserves some drape. This does mean that I'll be more careful about the shaping of my shetland sweaters; they won't be quite as forgiving (figure-wise) as something drapier, but the structure will hold up better.

Now I'm off to do some math for a new aran-weight sweater in which I'll use small, subtle cables to suggest tailoring. I love sweater designs that show how nicely the wearer is shaped, and boxy sweaters just don't do that for me. Flattering is the new black. If anyone else is having that problem, I can write up a custom pattern for this or my red fingering-weight sweater (it's almost done... I just need to get back to it).

Finished object: Mermaid!

I've finished off my Mermaid!

I'm going to wear it out tomorrow to meet imaginary people from the internet; if they don't make fun of me, I'll consider it a sucess. My gauge issues are largely masked by the application of icord as edging; normal sweater construction compensates for loosening/tightening gauge throughout a project far better than Mermaid. It's still a lovely sweater, and I'm very excited to have finished it, not least because my partner claimed that I obviously didn't need any knitting things for the holidays, as I hadn't finished last year's present.

For those with high curviness coefficients, note that Mermaid suggests curviness better than it accomodates it. If I knit it again (after I have enough sweaters to keep me warm through the cold, cold Boston winter), I'll take out part of each stripey section and add gussets like the blue ones, but facing up instead of down. (See how excited I was? I didn't even bother changing my ... lovely pants.)

The construction details on this sweater make seaming a snap. Slipped sitches make a two-stitch section of stockinette to be seamed at the shoulders. The narrower band of stockinette is where I seamed the (garter stitch) collar section to the stockinette at the top of the back.

The collar is knit as part of the body, then seamed in the middle and stitched down to the back. This does result in a rather prominent seam down the back of the collar, though it's nicer because of the (single-stitch) stockinette seaming area. It would be more obvious if I had used the icord instructions Hanne Falkenberg specified; instead of making the icord in two pieces (one for each side of the sweater), I did it all at once to eliminate the seam.

Because of all the slipped stitches and colour changes, the insides of the seams don't look as pretty. I'm hoping that a bit of steam will make them nicer. Since the yarn is so fine, bulkiness is not an issue here, just fastidiousness.

The shoulder is easy as well, because the sleeve incorporate the slipped-stitch seaming area. (You can just see the edge of it in the seam in the form of vertical pieces of yarn.) The armscye is rather flat, which is good for seaming, but probably could have been slightly better for fit. In virtually every picture I've seen of someone in a Mermaid, the shoulders are a bit large and droopy, which could be fixed by cutting the armsceye slightly deeper. If I knit this again, I'll incorporate that change.

Even the sleeves are finished off nicely with icord!

Kitty says: get on to the next sweater, or the yarn gets it!

I'll add here a blatant plea. If anyone is reading this, please let me know. I'm not sure if I should continue putting up pictures if people don't care.

Fortunate confluence of gifts

Isn't it nice when people ask you for gifts of things that you have the yarn for anyway?

My aunt from CA wants a pair of cotton socks. Enter the Cascade Fixation that Krista brought me back from a law-school-hunting trip. I hope it's not too loud...

No pair of socks I could knit could be scarier than this. How does Cascade think this is an advertisment for their yarn? If I didn't already own some, I would have run screaming.


My sister asked for something warm. When I tried to nail this down a little more, she asked for a fluffy soft scarf. I'll go one better: soft fluffy scarf in purple-y Noro Silk Garden and Silk Road Aran and a matching pair of Urban Rustic gloves.

The bottom gloves are for me. My partner talked me into buying them. (I believe his exact words were "you complain all the time about the cold. get the gloves.") If mountaineering gauntlets aren't warm enough to bike this winter, then I'm going to take it as a sign that I shouldn't be biking.

My cold is still hanging around, so kitty and I are going to go nap again.

Finished (off) objects

Warning: I've been working, so long post ahead.

First finished object: thanksgiving leftovers. I ate this meal something like six times in a row before we ran out. I like it so much I'm thinking of cooking more already. Please forgive the "just nuked" look here. This is harvest pie of veggies (sweet potato, onion, red/green pepper, broccoli) in a bit of cheddar cheese sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes and cauliflower (the green bits are parsley).

Second finished object: Rogue is finally finished! This is my first completed sweater, and I'm pleased (overall) with the outcome. I'm sure my skill at setting in sleeves will improve, but there are some design tweaks I should have made to the sweater. I added stitches to the bust and removed them from the waist, but not quite enough for either. It's a bit of a roomy sweater; comfy, but I prefer something more fitted. It also needed a bust dart. While quite a bit of thanksgiving leftovers are stored under the sweater bump in the front, that's actually the hem riding up from lack of a bust dart. (Another indication that I should have put in a bust dart is the folds/pulls that you can see on the sides of my bust.) This sweater is a revalation, though. Who knew that aran-weight sweaters are so warm? I'm going to knit myself another one next week! The yarn (Jo Sharp Silkroad) Aran is fluffy, has great stitch definition, and is altogether wonderful. I used size 8 Denises, changing them to size 6 for the cuffs.





Third (somewhat) finished object: I started the finishing work on Mermaid. There are certainly more ends to weave in than I prefer to contemplate, and the shoulder/collar seams took a while to finish, but I think this is going to be worth it.

I've mocked this up by pinning the sleeves on, so please forgive the wonkiness. I also need to add the icord edging to the front edges, which should add some structure, and add buttons or some sort of pin or tie. (I think a trip to Winsor Button is in order, since I now need buttons for at least three projects.)

I love the curviness of this sweater, but it's not as perfect as I hoped it would be. For one, it needs a bust dart. (Are we sensing a theme here? My next-most-finished sweater does have a bust dart, so I have learned my lesson.) To be fair to myself, the directions are so badly written that I couldn't figure out how to place a bust dart well until I actually knitted the thing. (If you don't like directions like "reverse previous shaping" applied to a long series of varying short-rows and increases, do NOT knit this sweater.) I also had a gauge issue. My gauge tends to loosen as I work on a project. I work to counteract it, and hope that this will fade with experience. Still, one side of Mermaid is slightly longer than the other. I'm hoping that applying the icord trim and aggressive blocking will help disguise this.

This is all a learning process, and I'm feeling that process pretty heavily right now. I've certainly learned a lot, and the sweaters are nice and warm and comfy and nice... but they're not as perfect as I hoped they would be. More cheerily, here's a picture of the cat:

A tropical day in Sleeve Island

The sleeves, they are moving along. You can tell I'm scared of the cold, because I'm cranking along on finishing things as fast as possible! (I am doing a bit of holiday knitting in here, but I need to hide that from family for now, so no pictures.)

I realized on the exciting ride home from a wonderful (virtually all vegetarian!) Thanksgiving/Yanksgiving dinner (to digress momentarily, it really was exciting:)

Anyway, on the way home I realized that I'll be in Halifax and Prince Edward Island for the holidays this year. Sure, this means that I'd better get some sweaters done, but it also means that I can finally get my hands on some of the Fleece Artist/Handmaiden that the Yarn Harlot has been raving about. The sock yarns! The lovely semi-solids! I'm dizzy with anticipation (or the cold I'm still fighting off)!

I don't want to fall into the trap of "stash as souvenir", but I have wanted to knit White Lies' Sarah cardigan (with 900 yards of DK-weight smooth wool and 700 yards of laceweight mohair, btw, since it doesn't say on their page) or possibly White Lies' Angelina cardigan or something of my own design... I'll need to see the colours of semi-solids they have in stock, but Burgundy's always a safe choice for me, and if two sweaters in deep cranberry reds is too much, perhaps they'll have something in a vintage-y ocean blue that goes well with brown and black. Did anyone have a shopping list for me, while I'm up there? (Krista, you might at least want that incredible hand cream that my MIL got me last year; it's a lifesaver in the dry cold.)

I have a question for any Nova Scotia/Prince Edward Island knitters: is it better to go to GNK (which supposedly carries Fleece Artist/Handmaiden, but looks like a sweater store) or LK Yarns (which looks like a normal yarn store) or something on the drive from one to the other?

Signing off, from "apparently all sweaters, all the time"!

Good cheap wool alert

Sorry about the lack of a FO post yet. When I'm a little less sick I'll get some pictures from my first finished sweater ever. I've been crashed out on the couch for the last two days.

Kitty, as always, has been helping.


I swatched some of my aran-weight highland tweed yarn (in arctic). While I prefer smaller-gauge sweaters, I need more protection from the cold, so this yarn is going to come in handy.

If you have any need for an aran-weight wool, I'd suggest picking up some of this at only $12/pound (!). This is a loosely plied two-ply 100% wool yarn, so it's not going to show off your cables as well as a 3-ply, but will give a subtler effect. It's a soft yarn (once washed), with a little bit of a furry halo, like a shetland wool. I'm going to pick up another 4 pounds for a thick knitted jacket, experiments with dying, and holiday gift materials.

The internet returns!

I can't fully explain how much I missed having 'net while I moved hither and yon. The long delay is a long story, but I can give you a short version: Verizon sucks. Now that I've gotten that out of my system, I can show you something that's been giving me warmth and comfort.

If there's anything happier than a sweater-drying rack full of socks (and someone's holiday present), it's two racks. I'm working on that, since I've spent a lot of time at work reading RFCs. These are sufficiently dry that my reading comprehension is vastly improved by knitting socks. My quest to try every sock yarn in the world is continuing apace with Mind's Eye Yarn merino-tencel and Mountain Colours Bearfoot. My fear of winter makes me want to try Icelandic sock yarn, but I'll wait until after the holiday knitting to order that. At this rate, this might be in March.

Speaking of Lucy's (Mind's Eye Yarn) fingering-weight yarn (which is exceedingly nice yarn), she was sweet enough to dye me a bunch in a cranberry-plum colourway.

I have a plan here, I swear, though you probably can't tell anything from these (unblocked) swatches, other than that lace is involved.


I swear that I'm finishing things, or at least moving in that direction. My red sweater will never be a work-appropriate sweater, insofar as I work with a lot of guys.

I swear, that empty lump of a bust dart is not loose when I wear the sweater. This has a great deal to do with the whole "non-work-appropriate" problem. I can tell you that someone will appreciate it when I finally finish and wear the sweater.

I really am finishing things up, though, impelled by the cold that's coming (it's coming, it's coming, it's coming to get me!).

Boring, boring, boring

I am now safely in Boston. I have no 'net in Boston, unless I schlep down to the Starbucks. As Verizon thinks that it is reasonable to demand that I take a day off of work to get my phone line installed, I have no idea when I will have net. I haven't been spending my time cursing at them; I am rummaging through boxes. If anyone knows where my hand-knit wool socks are, please let me know. I think otherwise I'm going to find Mind's Eye Yarns, crouch behind the wool, and wimper a little. How did I forget that Boston is this cold, this early in the year?

What I did on my summer vaccation

Well, what I did yesterday, anyway.

Sure, I got married this weekend (no pictures yet), but then I spent 7+ hours in urgent care yesterday only to find out that something may or may not be wrong. As my general theory is that I should wait until I'm really, really, really sure there's something wrong before I go to the doctor, this "go when the pain is still managable" theory isn't working out that well. On the upside, it's been all sock yarn, all the time.

I'm socking up! I'm moving to Boston in a few days and I'm scared of winter.

Sock info: Cherry Tree Hill supersock in "earth" a.k.a. "I went hiking without any boots on", knitted on flexible plastic needles that don't break in my purse. These socks were knitted toe-up using the magic cast-on and a short-row heel.

Speaking of Cherry Tree Hill, did you see their sock design contest? Design a pair of solid-colour socks, then send them the pattern and the actual socks. You will never see your socks again, unless you win, in which case you'll see a picture of them. Maybe three knitters will even make the money back that they spent on yarn. Who will enter this? Process knitters who live in the tropics?

HAPPY WEDDING DAY!

Dearest Lea,

Happy (almost) wedding day! I am so, so excited and happy for you. N and I are very sorry we can't be with you, but we know that your day will be wonderful and perfect, and at the end of the day you will be MARRIED! And to someone who is ALMOST good enough for you :)

On our wedding day, our best man (whom you also know and love) gave us the best advice on marriage I've heard so far. And so I pass that on to you: you and C will come to know each other better than you know anyone else in the world, possibly even better than you know yourselves. Your marriage will be strong and your lives will be happy if you remember to always, always, use that knowledge for good and not for evil.

Tomorrow, you will be starting a fabulous new life with a man you adore. I hope he always gives you all the good things you deserve, and that your lives together will be healthy, happy, and long.

Your kindness and support have meant so much to me over the last year.

All my love, and a million congratulations,

Krista

A sense of accomplishment (this is 100g)

I haven't been able to knit as much as I could, as I'm getting married next weekend. I have, however, finally finished the first skien of yarn.

Somehow I think that five 100g skiens of sock yarn was overkill. I'm almost up to the armpittal area, including a four inch bust dart (details to follow once I'm sure it fits well... but now it's obvious why off-the-rack clothes don't fit me well). I guess that makes this either an expensive sweater or a cheap one, depending on how you count. I think charging the yarn to a few pairs of socks is fair, no? Anyone interested in trading some lovely crimson Cherry Tree Hill fingering weight superwash merino or some hemp for some wool or wool blend in a fingering/sport/DK weight?

OK, this is just getting spooky

I have a list of design projects that I've been working on. After the Eunny-top (which I blantantly ripped off and changed, I admit it), I have a list of winter-weight things to work on. Perhaps it's that I'm in California, but I think it'll still be warm while I'm knitting my next sweater, and I need a transitional-weight layering piece for the office. I've been looking through pattern sites linked to on Vintage Knitting to look for inspiration and sketching ideas. I came up with (wait for it) virtually the same thing that Eunny posted about today. I don't tend to wear the same colours as she does, I was going to use a cotton-silk or a wool-silk to dress it up a little for the office, and mine will have to include bust darts, but it's basically the same sweater. I want to put little sweet round vintage buttons all down the front, though I haven't found them yet. If I don't find them, perhaps my step-grandmother will let me take a look through her incredible button box. Little unmatched pearl buttons would be cute on this, don't you think?

Ah, well. If I have to keep desgining the same things as someone else, at least it's Eunny. I think she has excellent taste. I may not knit this cardi anway; it depends on what I find in the yarn clearance bins today.

The geek is in the details

I'm far enough in knitting my little Eunny-top that I can show you a few little details I've knitted into the twisted ribs at the waist:

• DNA in the form of chromosome pairs. Look at the crosses in the sweater (sorry they're hard to see, but they're hard to photograph stretched) then look at the picture of the chromosome pair. Squint a little; it's stylized and based on what I remember from high school AP biology.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• DNA in the form of helices. In fact, I've included both left and right twist helices. Some X-ray structure research suggests that it's a pretty low-energy transformation to move between them, so you may very well have both kinds in you at different times. Typically, you'll have the right-handed B-form.
  
  
  
  

Sweater girl

I learned recently that even after one defends one's PhD, one's advisor can still block one from graduating. This makes one very cranky.

I have made a bit of progress on my Eunny top. As you can see, it's not so much a copy of Eunny's sweater as inspired by it. As I'm using merino sock wool, the top is stretchy like I wouldn't believe. (It's a good thing, too, because I somehow gained a bunch of weight around my middle. This might somehow be associated with the knitting, but I'm not going to draw any hasty conclusions until I finish knitting this fun little sweaterlet.)

This 8-inch-across sweater magically stretches to fit!

Of course, the row gauge is abysmal. I must march on!

Pay no attention to the ...

Non-knitting content of this post. I do have about 1/3 of a sock to show for myself, but that's not very exciting. I would rather distract you with pretty pictures of the view from our new apartment. Day (today, in fact) ....Isn't it just perfectly callllm and bluuuue?

Sunset ...


(Please note that the photographer, and not the horizon, is crooked).

Norton sends his love.

Dipping my toes back into socks

Dear Krista,

I don't know what the Chicago weather is like, but out here in CA it's chilly enough in the mornings to make me long for socks. (I still can't wear them, but I can wish.) Since I need a new needle for my Eunny-top (it turns out that a stretchy top that fits snugly around my waist is just too small for a 24" needle), I started a new pair of socks. Since I like to try something new with each pair of socks, I used the magic toe-up cast-on on some lovely cherry Tree Hill Supersock in Earth. The yarn feels a lot like Koigu when it's knitted up, full of sproing and chushiness. Still, I think the colour could be more accurately labeled as "went hiking without any boots on". I brought the sock to the Computer History Museum to get a little culture. I was particularly amused by this behemoth; this was basically the first giant modem. You would plug your (giant) computer into this BBN box, which would then allow you to talk to the BBN box on the other end, which would then convey your message to the (giant) computer on the other end. This was the beginning of the internet. Having been to BBN, I saw a lot of other interesting stuff stashed in corners, like a Faraday cadge and a giant torpedo pool.


I'll just leave you with the welcome we recieved from some Davis Square pigeons. I'm not going to knit under that tree any time soon.


Bye!

... in which our heroine discovers the source of her skin condition

Dear Readers,

I humbly apologize for the lack of knitting content on this blog. Krista and I both moved out of Pittsburgh in the last week, so virtually all of our yarn is packed. (Mine will remain so for at least a month.) We beseech your patience.

Sincerely,
Chialea


Dear Krista,

Thanks for sending over that bleach pen after I dripped blood all over the carpet. In honor of Mac, I'm posting a gross foot picture.

I promise that this is far less gross than it could be, as it's healing, I've blurred the picture, and I've smoothed over some of the missing flesh with neosporin, breakfast of clumsy people. The upshot is that I seem to be incompetent at moving, and I'd like to avoid it for a while. Luckily, we've signed a lease on an incredible apartment in Cambridge, MA. I'm excited to meet the knitters out there; it seems like they are pretty serious about it. Even a bunch of the blogs I read are based in Boston: Subway Knitter, Grumperina, Blue Blog and the rest of the Knitsmiths. I'll certainly need more sweaters on my 1.5 mile walk/bike (each way) to work, so I'd better get cracking!

I may need to give or trade away all my lovely hemp yarn. According to an organic clothing blog, hemp itself is not irritating. However,

Clothing made from hemp and various wools is often intolerable for the acutely chemically sensitive; probably not because of some problem with the natural fiber but with chemicals added during the manufacturing process.

"Acutely chemically sensitive", my butt. I've never had a skin reaction to anything before in my life, including hemp oils; this one ended up taking over two fingers and kept me from knitting for over a week. AllHemp must have some really impressive chemicals to cause skin sensitivity or skin allergy. Mind you, I washed this yarn before using it. I'm going to ask them for advice, but I may just have to give up on their hemp. Euroflax isn't even available in the colours I wanted: deep ocean blue and chocolate brown.

P.S. I know this is a shot in the dark, but if anyone knows of an interesting knitters group, especially in the Davis Square area or accessible by T (preferably Red Line), please let me know. I'll be moving out to Cambridge all alone for a while and I'd love to meet some more people. Willing to pay bribe of newly washed hemp yarn, as bribery "fees" seem to be the norm for apartment-hunting. :)